Understanding a Dress Pattern Part 3

Welcome to part 3 of 'Understanding a Dress Pattern' this week we are going through what's inside of the envelope. Having followed all the information in the first two parts about how to choose your pattern and how to find out what you need, lets get stuck in to how to make your garment.

Inside the envelope you will find the pattern instructions and the pattern tissue pieces.

The Pattern Instructions

If you take out your instructions the first page will show you line drawings of all the designs, a drawing of all the pieces and which design they belong too. From this you can sort out which pattern pieces you need to cut from the tissue pieces.

Next to that there will usually be a glossary of terms and directions. If you are new to patterns it is a good idea to have a thorough read of this before you start, it is always there for you to refer back to if there is something you don't understand.

Underneath all that will be your cutting lay outs, the blueprints if you like for where you need to place your pieces on your fabric. Again there will be options for different widths of fabric and sometimes sizes. Find the layout that is relevant to you and use that to place your pattern.

The Pattern Tissue

Having read the first part of your instructions, you can unfold your pattern tissue and roughly cut the pieces you need for your chosen design. Although, I usually don't cut the tissue, to make my patterns last longer I use greaseproof paper and trace over the pieces to create copies, leaving the original intact.

This just means that I can always go back to the pattern at another time and make a different size or variation and not have cut away anything I may need. (If you choose to copy, make sure you are accurate and that you copy all the information that you need from each piece) The markings on a pattern can be overwhelming as there are so many with multi sized patterns, but if you have read your glossary it will become clearer. you can always refer to that if you are unsure.

Back to the Instructions

The next step is to start following the instructions, I usually go through them and mark (in pencil) all the parts that are relevant to the design I am making before I start so it is easier to follow as the instructions for all the garments in your pattern are together on the sheet and some steps will be the same for multiple garments. By highlighting (in pencil) the ones you need you can easily ignore the ones you don't need this time.

Once you have read through the instructions you can go to cut out your pieces and start creating your garment. Make sure that the fabric is folded correctly and they you are cutting the right amount of pieces. Having read through the instructions it will have given you a better understanding of how all the pieces go together and you can start to construct your garment with more confidence.

Learning how to use a pattern is one of the best things I ever did, I am so grateful that my mum taught me from an early age. The thing I like most about making clothes is that you end up with clothes that are totally unique to you, with your choice of style and fabric.

I hope that was helpful to you if you are thinking of having a go at making something from a pattern, and that it has made it a little easier to follow. Is there anything else that you are interested in knowing about patterns? leave a comment and I will try and answer you query, If I think others might be interested I will write a post about it. Check out part 1 here and part 2 here, also check out our post about choosing fabrics from last year.

Sammy xxx

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Understanding a Dress Pattern Part 2

Last week I spoke about how to choose a dress pattern, this week I am going to give you some of my tips on how to read a pattern. As I said last week, Patterns can be intimidating if you have never used one before, but once you know what you are looking at it becomes a whole lot clearer.

Try and think of your pattern as an instruction manual. The information is split up in to different parts to guide you through the process you will need to buy your materials and construct your garment. 

The Pattern Envelope

The front of the envelope will have the picture of all the garments you can make from your pattern, it will also have the pattern number and the sizes that you can make from it.

The back of the envelope is where it can start to look a little scary. There is a lot of information here, some that you need and some that you don't.

It can be more complicated for us here in the UK because most patterns are printed in the USA where they still measure in imperial (inches and yards) and mostly shops in the UK we sell by metric ( metres and centimetres) Don't panic. They will always print the metric amounts on the pattern envelope ( unfortunately on the French side of the pattern ) 

First you need to decide which of the designs within your pattern you are going to make. You can see small drawings on the left which will show you the difference between the styles and give you a letter code for that style, it may be a neck line or a sleeve option or a length option. The image on the front may also give you the letter codes you need to identify the style. Then you can work out the size you need to make, as I mentioned last week, this is important as pattern sizing is not relevant to shop sizing.

Go by your body measurements and make the size that will fit you, you can always take it in a little if it's too big, but if it's too small it wont fit at all.

By following down the column under your size you can see how many metres of fabric each design takes. By matching up the letter code for your choice of design with the your size column you can see how much you need to buy. Your pattern may give options for different widths of fabric, usually 115cm (45'') or 150cm (60'') so you will need to check which width your chosen fabric is before you buy so that you get the right amount. once I have bought the pattern I often use a highlighter to mark the column with my size so it is easier to follow in the future.

Also on the back will be a suggested fabrics section where you will find some suggestions for the kinds of fabrics that the pattern is designed for and the Garment measurements, which will give you an idea of the fit of the garment (whether it will be tight or loose and the length)

Lastly you will find the requirements section (sometimes called notions) which will tell you what else, other than fabric, you will need to complete the pattern. This is where you will find what size zip, buttons or elastic you need and any additional trims etc.

Usually, if your pattern requires interfacing and occasionally trimmings, they will be listed under the letter listing for each design. 

By following the back of the envelope you should have all the items needed to make your garment.

That's a lot of information to take in so I'm going to leave it there for this week. Next week we will cover the inside the envelope, pattern instructions and the pattern tissue. Check out part 1 here and part 3 here.

Sammy xxx

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Understanding a Dress Pattern Part 1

Dress making patterns can be intimidating if you have never worked with them before. There is a lot of information on the outside and inside of a pattern envelope that needs to be taken into consideration and is essential to knowing whether the pattern will work for you. We sell lots of patterns everyday in Sew Crafty, and I have been working with patterns since I was little so I thought I would share some of the tips I have learned over the years to help you understand how they work and how to choose the one that is right for you. (Please bear in mind that some of the sizing information is relevant to the UK only)

The Basics

Searching for your pattern : You can search either in store via catalogues or online via the pattern company websites. I prefer to use the catalogues as you can gain more information from them and I find it easier to compare patterns to one another if I can see the actual product. Most stores that sell patterns have a variety of books to choose from, for instance at Sew Crafty we have New Look, Simplicity and McCalls patterns in stock and have Vogue and Butterick catalogues with the patterns to order. Usually you will search through the catalogues to find the design you like, then the sales assistant will find the pattern envelope in the stock drawers for you in the size that you need. 

Sizing : Check that the pattern is available in your size. We find that patterns come up at least one size smaller than you would buy in say Marks and Spencer's or Topshop. You can check your measurements for sizing in the back of the catalogues for a general guide, and specific sizing on the pattern itself. A good general rule to follow is that if you usually buy a size 12 in a ready made garment you will be best making a size 14 in a pattern. Luckily most patterns come in multi sized groupings, for instance (8-14) - (14-24) so you can be a little flexible. Be aware that the back of the pattern envelope will give you details for all the sizes, only the front will tell you the grouping you are buying. 

Measurements : The other thing that can be helpful when looking at size is taking your measurements before you go to look for patterns. Knowing your measurements in inches and cm is helpful when trying to choose a pattern. The garment measurements and size measurements are usually listed on the back of the pattern envelope (if not they will be on the instructions) and will give you a good indication of the size and length of the finished garment. This will let you know what the fit of the garment is like too, whether it is designed to be a tight  fit, or a loose baggy garment, how full the skirt will be etc.

Fabric : If you want a pattern to make a cotton dress, picking a design that is shown in thick wool is not going to work very well. Try and be guided by the fabric suggestions on the pattern envelope.

Style : When shopping for clothes we try and choose styles that suit our figures, do the same with patterns. You will never get a good result if you pick a style that is not what you would usually wear. 

Over ambitious : Try to pick a pattern that is relevant to your experience. If you choose a pattern that has lots of pieces and detailed seams, as a beginner, it can be too complicated and will end up being frustrating. Work your way up to details like pin tucks, detailed seams, intricate collars and sleeves. If you learn a different technique every time you try a pattern you will get a better result than trying to learn everything at once.

Catalogue drawings : Don't let the drawings or photographs in the catalogues put you off. I try to look at the small line drawings at the bottom of each page to get an idea of shape, rather than being put off by a fabric choice or an exaggerated illustration. 

This is Part 1 of 3 the next section which will explain more about the pattern envelope and what all that information is for. Parts two and three are now available to view, Part 2 here and Part 3 here.

Sammy xxx 

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