Makers Month: Top 5 tips for creating custom orders with DaphneRosa

Today's maker is Kate, with her business DaphneRosa she works alot with bespoke orders and creating custom orders specifically to her client's requirements. We thought it would be interesting to hear from her about how she goes about working with them and her tips for dealing with custom clients. 

Review: The Craft Studio books + Giveaway (CLOSED)

We have a review for you today and a little Giveaway, yey (only UK residents this time, sorry).  The Craft Studio books from Thames & Hudson and are out today!  So hot off the press just ready for you to win them, more about that at the end of this post.

There are four books in the series at the moment, but I am sure there will be more.  The books are; Tote Bags by Sonia Lucano, Brooches by Corinne Alagille, Decorating with Pompoms & Tassels and Stamping & Printing by Emilie Greenberg & Karine Thiboult-Demessence.  Each are priced at £9.95 each and so not too expensive either which is always nice.

 Each of the four books contain 20 easy to follow projects with beautiful pictures and an easy to read layout.  They are not too large a book, so they fit neatly on your bookshelf while also being useful for those 'what project shall I do today' times.

The contents page just makes you want to dive in more.  Lovely photographs and a simple to find contents page is always a great thing in my mind.

There are some Tips & Techniques in the books, to get you started and help you if you are a complete beginner.  If not a beginner, then you can dive on in to the rest of the book without a problem.

I just picked out a few of the pages from the books, this sequinned tote bag looks so fun to make and will make a great gift for someone.  The projects are broken down into what you need and how long it is going to take you which is always nice as then you can decide which project you want to take on in that spare few moments.

Onto a Pompom mobile, what a great project for a children's bedroom or wedding decoration.  Some of the projects have handy hand drawn details to go with the written instructions, handy for the more complicated parts.

This Origami brooch is definitely on my list of makes.  I am not a big brooch wearer, but they look so fun to make, I might change my mind.

Last but by no means least, this simple to print polka dot tableware set is so cute!  I am all about the ceramics at the moment as you may have noticed from my pottery class post and so this project is also on the make list.

I love that the four books give a good range of skills for people to pick up, even if you only had one of the books you can learn new techniques and gain some new ideas.  The projects inside range from very simple to more complicated projects for the beginner and more experienced crafter, which makes them perfect as gifts or just to keep for yourself.

Speaking of which, that Giveaway.  You can win all of these books, yes all four!  One lucky winner will get these books to be able to go through the projects all by themselves.  Which one will be your favourite?

All you need to do is comment on this post with the skill you would like to learn the most with these books (remember to leave your email address).  If you like us on Instagram and twitter (if you don't already) you will get an extra entry for each one you follow us on - so those people who already do will get an extra entry too.  The Giveaway will be open until Friday 18 March 2016 at 12am (midnight GMT).   This time I am afraid the Giveaway is only open to UK residents - sorry international readers.  We will have something for you soon, promise.

We will add all the names into a hat (I know, so retro) and pick our winner and email you, so don't forget your email address when you enter.  Then we can post them off to you for you to enjoy.

THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED.

Good luck
H & Sammy, xxx

A few Rules:
The competition closes at 12am midnight GMT on Friday 18 March 2016.  No entries after this time will be counted.
The winner will be picked by ourselves and will be picked at random.
If we do not hear back from the winner by Monday 21 March 2016 at 12noon GMT, we will redraw and another winner will be picked.
This competition is only open to UK residents this time- sorry!


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Sewing Tips: Zips

Right it is that time that I am sure some of you have been waiting for, today we are going to be revealing our top tips about those pesky fasteners that lots of people are a little scared of... Zips. Warning its going to be a long post so go and get a cuppa and we will get stuck in.

Sewing Tips: Bias Binding

At Sew Crafty I get asked a lot about bias binding, like how to use it and what it's for, which is understandable, if you have never been taught about it, it may seem like a bit of a mystery. I love how it can take a project from okay through to polished and it really isn't as complicated as it may appear. So I thought for this month's sewing tips post I would write a definitive post including everything you ever wanted to know about Bias Binding.

Top Ten Sewing Machine Feet

I am aware that there are in fact twelve feet in the picture above and even worse there are actually more than ten feet mentioned in this post, I never have been able to stick to a budget! I have been asked alot recently after introducing the Teflon foot in our Pastel and Neon clutch bag tutorial about sewing machine feet. There are lots of different kinds of presser feet depending on what you need to do and which machine you have. I thought today I would just run you through my ten...sorry twelve most used machine feet.

I have three machines, a Janome 525s a Babylock 1600 and a mint green John Lewis mini and I am lucky enough that they all take standard low shank snap on feet. I have used contrasting threads to make it easier for you to see what each foot is capable of. 

Zig Zag foot

The zigzag is the most versatile of all the feet that come with your machine. This is the foot that you cannot live without. With the ability to stitch almost any stitch through the oval opening, you would be lost without this little one.

Zipper foot

For sewing zips into anything a zipper foot is essential. Depending on your machine, your foot or your needle will shift from side to side to be able to get up close to the zip coil without the foot veering off the edge of the zip and without damaging the coil, so that you can attach your zips with neat straight stitches.

Concealed zip foot

You don't need a concealed zip foot to insert a concealed zip but it is jolly useful if you do. The foot helps to roll the coil of the zip away whilst you stitch so you can get as close to the edge as possible to make a neat closure with no stitching showing on the outside of the project. 

Teflon foot/ Walking foot

These two for me count as one foot, as they are both designed to aid in moving sticky, slippery or bulky fabrics through your machine. The Teflon foot is recommended for fabrics like PVC and leatherette where the surface has a tendency to stick to the underside of a metal foot. The walking foot can also help with this issue, but it can also be used for sewing bulky fabrics and slippery fabrics like Minky fleece which tend to shift when sewing with a regular foot. In the photo above you can see the results sewing on Minky fabric with the walking foot on the left and with a regular foot on the right. So much better with the walking foot I think you will agree. 

Blind Hem Foot

The amazing invisible hem that you can achieve from this foot and its corresponding stitch is brilliant. Sometimes practice is required to truly appreciate what a wonder this foot can be, but once mastered it is a skill you won't forget. 

Embroidery/darning foot

If you have a need to be free with your stitching, an embroidery or darning foot will be your best friend. Once you lower the feed dogs (the little rough teeth that move the fabric through with your other feet) the bouncy foot will hold the fabric whilst the stitch is being made but will jump up so you can move the fabric in any direction you wish. Great for creating stitched art, appliqué and free motion quilting. 

Gathering foot.

Again a rather specific use and a little temperamental but good fun if you are in the mood to play around a little. This foot will stitch and as the name suggests, gather your fabric as it goes. I find that it does better with light weight fabrics and small amounts, but it is a time saver when sewing long lengths of trimmings. 

Piping foot

You can get different sizes of foot depending on the size of your piping, but basically the groove in the bottom is designed to hold the cord in place whilst you stitch the casing or cover in place. You can also use it when sewing the covered piping between two layers of fabric. Like the zip foot with zips, it is designed to get the stitch as close to the piping as it can, so as  little of the stitching is visible on the finished product. 

Button hole foot/guide

As the name suggests it is there as a guide when sewing a button hole by machine. It usually has markings on it so that it is easy to judge the size you need whilst sewing (if you have a manual button hole stitch). It also holds the fabric in place all the way around the button hole area whilst stitching to get a neat even finish. 

Bias binding foot

Designed to make the dull task of sewing on bias binding a little easier. It holds the fold of the bias in place with consistency to get a straight line when sewing your binding on the straight or round a curve. You just wheel the guide in to place and sew!

Roll Hemming Foot

A simple and efficient way to get a narrow neat finishing edge is to use a roll hemmer. It is a little fiddly at first but once the technique has been mastered you will love it.  Really good for finishing edges on silk scarves and fine or sheer fabrics. 

There are a couple of things I would suggest if you are thinking of trying or buying any of these feet for your own machine. Make sure you buy the right foot for your brand of machine. Keep all your feet and accessories together in one place and keep it in a safe, clean and dry environment. If you are using a foot for the first time, or for the first time in a while practice on some scrap fabric before you sew on your final project... just in case.

If you are nervous about even approaching your machine check out our post about how to fall in love with your machine. Want to find out more about other sewing machine feet and more on how to use any of the feet specifically? You can head over to our friends at the Sewing Directory where they have more articles about all the feet I have mentioned and more.

Do you have a tool or technique that you love?  Is there something about sewing or crafts you have always wanted to know about?  Let us know, we would love to write some more posts like this.  Look out for my much requested 'Bias Binding' Top Tips special coming up next week.

Sammy xxx

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Sewing tips: Basics #2

We are just addicted to sharing our fave tips and tricks when it comes to sewing and crafts. We are diving into a second round of sewing tips today, don't forget to check out our previous tips Basics #1 and How to Fall in Love With Your Sewing Machine. Also why not check out my fabric buying tips and pattern advice from last year. Quite a mixed bag this time so lets get going....

Zips: Not sure about which size zip you need, don't panic Zips can be cut to size. If you buy one that is too long, as long as you stitch across the ends to stop the runner from coming off you can cut off the excess to make it the right length for your project.

Patterns: Make your patterns last longer by tracing them off onto greaseproof paper rather than cutting out from your pattern sheet. It means you never cut anything important away and if you need to make adjustments you don't spoil your original pattern papers.

Pattern Sizing: The big brand patterns, Simplicity, McCall's etc, often work from fashion sizing measurements not retail sizing measurements. You will often need to make up your patterns in a larger size than you would buy in the shops. If in doubt always check the body and garment measurements on each pattern and make to the size it recommends for your stats.

Fabrics: One thing we tell our customers at Sew Crafty all the time is to go home and wash their fabric before they start their projects. Even if you aren't using cotton fabric (which can shrink when washed) or the project you have in mind wont be washed afterwards, it is still worth giving it a rinse and an iron before you start to get rid of any dust or creases.

Tools: Invest in a small ruler, it is helpful to have a small measuring tool to hand so you don't always have to reach for your tape measure.

Storage: Rather than a pretty but not totally functional sewing basket for all your machine parts and sewing notions, why not invest in a tool box or vanity case. The mix of large and small compartments are perfect for keeping all those little bits and bobs in order.

Button Holes: Pop a pin in the end of your button hole to stop cutting too far and ruining your button hole.

Machine Stitching: Always check your machine top and bottom tension before you start to sew. If you have a bobbin case dangle it with the bobbin inside, if it shakes down slowly its perfect, if it falls it's too loose and if it doesn't move its too tight.

Seams: Always press your seams as you go, you will never regret it later.

Seating: Make sure your sewing machine chair is at a good height for your machine and is comfortable. But do make sure you get up and take breaks every so often, so you don't get too stiff.

Equipment: Always try and buy the best equipment you can afford. Cheap haberdashery is usually cheap for a reason. This is most important when referring to thread. The time it takes to make a garment to have the seams pop the first time you wear it is not worth the saving!

I hope these will be helpful, even if you are a seasoned machinist. Look out for our next tips post that I am working on at the moment all about Sewing Machine feet. As usual let us know your favourite tips in the comments below, we love to learn new tricks.

Sammy xxx


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Sewing Tips: Basics #1

We had such a great response to our post last month about How to Fall in Love With Your Sewing Machine, so we thought we would share some more of our sewing tips with you today. We are starting with a few basic things and we are planning more of these so if there is anything specifically that you would like tips on, maybe bias binding or zips? Let us know. Also why not check out my fabric buying tips and pattern advice from last year. Lets get going..,..

Threads:

• If you're not sure which colour to use on a jazzy fabric try and stick to the most dominant colour or the colour of the background. If there isn't an obvious choice go for the darkest colour, it will always show less that a lighter thread. 
• The same theory applies when trying to match a thread colour in general, if you can't find a perfect match go a shade darker as it will show less.
• Threads will always look darker on the reel than off it as a single strand. Guttermann threads have a little magic trick to help, their bottoms are loose so you can twist them to free the thread loose to check it against your fabric. 

Machine needles:

• Most brands of machine needles will fit any domestic sewing machine. When you are looking at needles their sizes (ie. 90/14 or 80/12) refers to the thickness of the needle and therefore which fabric they should be used on. The lower the number the finer the needle and the finer the fabric you will sew with that needle. 
• There are different needles for different types of fabrics too. Jeans needles are especially for working with Denim and densely woven fabrics, Ballpoint needles can be used for jersey fabrics, but also for silk. Stretch needles are for use with Lycra or swimwear fabrics and quilting needles are designed to go through lots of layers at once. Try and stick to using the right needle for the right job. 
• We advise that you mark up your needles so you know which are which when they are out of their packets. I use nail polish, but you can use coloured sharpies. The sizes are written on the needles but it is so tiny it can be hard to read. 
• If you have put a specialist needle in,  remove it when you have finished the job and put it back in the packet so you don't forget which needle is in your machine. 

Tricky fabrics:

• If you are sewing with waxed fabric or pvc, leatherette or anything sticky you will need a Teflon foot to get a smooth stitch. Not go one of those? Dive into a drawer and use some trusty Scotch magic tape (the one that is slightly misty) to cover the bottom of your normal foot. It is a great alternative until you can get a hold of the real thing. 
• Sewing jersey or anything stretchy or slippery? Sandwich your fabric with tissue paper to get an even stitch. Or use scraps of interfacing which you can then remove by tearing away when you have finished.
• Tack, tack, tack. It may seem laborious but it will be worth it in the end.

Patterns:

• Taken your measurements but still unsure which size to cut out from your pattern sheet? Take a garment similar to the one you want to make that you like the fit of and lay it over the pattern pieces. This will give you a good idea of whether you are on the right track with sizing.
• If you are working with tricky chiffon or jersey fabrics try cutting out your pattern with a rotary cutter and mat. It stops the fabric from moving around as much as when you use scissors. 

Scissors:

• Always keep your best scissors for cutting only fabric, cutting paper (even pattern tissue) will blunt them faster. Also avoid using them on beaded or sequin fabrics unless you remove the embellishments from your seam edges first. Avoid wired edge ribbon too.
• Don't waste your money on cheap scissors, especially pinking shears. Generally speaking you get what you pay for with scissors. A good pair, well looked after should last you a lifetime. 

What are your top tips for sewing, Is there anything else you need or want to know more about? I have had a lot of questions about bias binding lately, is that something you would be interested in as a post here?? Let me know if there are any specific areas that you want tips about and I will see if we can do a post on them.

Sammy xxx

P.S. The gorgeous sewing poster in the first photograph is by Rebecca Stoner, you can now buy them at Sew Crafty Online, Yay!


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How to Fall in Love With Your Sewing Machine

Did you get a shiny new sewing machine for Christmas? Do you have one, unloved and sitting in your cupboard? Nervous to get it out of the box? Please don't be, your machine can be your best friend if you learn how to love it. A lot of our customers in Sew Crafty tell me that they are a little intimidated by their sewing machine. They are afraid of doing something wrong and not being able to fix it. They find it frustrating and complicated, who has time for that!

Today I am going to let you in on the secret (not a very well kept one) that I tell all of my customers, a tool that is invaluable when tackling a sewing machine, whether you are new to sewing or an old hand. The best news is that you may already have one.....

Your instruction book.

Yes, Seriously, your instruction book. Now don't panic, if you have not a clue where yours is you can usually download the one for your model on the manufacturer's website. Take a note of your make and model and google away, for instance I have a Janome 525s so I would google 'janome 525s instruction manual' and you should be able to get a hold of it that way.  Usually as a PDF so you can print it off if you like too.

Now that you have your instructions at hand you can use them to find out most any thing you need to know. Most instructions don't just have set-up directions but usually they will talk you through all of the techniques that your machine can handle; including zips button holes and decorative stitching. It will tell you what presser feet you have and what they are used for and what settings you need to use for which fabrics. Mine even has a handy trouble shooting guide in the back.

I know that all the information in the manual can be a little overwhelming at first, but learning to drive a car is complicated until you learn how. Here are my top tips to get started:

• Take some time out to get to know your machine and the techniques it is capable of. 
• Use fabric scraps to practice stitches so you don't mess up your projects.
• Don't rush, push, force, hurry or pull. No one likes that!
• Always use the best needles and thread you can afford, your machine will thank you for it.
• Change you needle regularly. 
• Make sure you buy the right bobbins needles and feet. Take one that came with the machine along to your haberdashers with you to double check. 
• Make a note of your make and model to keep in your purse when shopping for machine parts. 
• Take good care of your machine. Find the name of a local sewing machine engineer and have your machine serviced after your guarantee ends. Then every two years after, regardless of how much you use it (even more important if it has not been used)
• Set aside some time before you start a project to practice the steps you will need, practice makes perfect. 

I hope that has encouraged you to get your machine out from where it is hiding. Trust me, it could be the start of a beautiful friendship. Why not have a try this weekend? Do let us know how you get on.

Is there anything you want to know about starting to sew with a machine? Ask your question in the comments and we can see if we can help.

Sammy xxx


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